When sawing, use an even consistent pressure. Push the wood into the front of the blade, NOT the side.
When sawing long, sweeping curves use the movement of your body to help guide the work piece into the blade. This will work better than trying to use just your hands to constantly make small adjustments as you guide the work piece into the blade. You can practice this on a piece of scrap wood until you perfect the technique used by many pro-scrollers. Always use the largest blade you can get away with, since small blades are more likely to break and are much more sensitive to correct blade tension and operating speed.
When drilling initial pilot holes use a scrap board under the work piece to prevent tear out from the blade.
This is especially useful when making tight cuts and you don’t want the drill hole to interrupt your pattern lines. Place pilot holes near to a corner if turn room is needed. Pinless blades can be sharpened on the end to make it easier to insert the blades into fine holes when cutting highly detailed fretwork.
Review this before buying your
next batch of scroll saw blades.
There are many factors to consider when choosing a scroll saw blade for your project. Thickness and hardness of wood as well as intricacy of the pattern are important factors.
Review the complexity of the pattern that is to be cut out with a scroll saw. Choose a blade that is small enough to easily cut into the tightest areas of the pattern. Thicker and harder wood requires larger and thicker blades. The blade being used must be able to turn within the radius of the sharpest corners of the scroll saw pattern.
Scroll saw blade sizes are listed using numbers. The higher the number, the bigger the blade. The numbers can range from as large as #12 to sizes below #0, such as #2/0 (pronounced two aught), #3/0, etc. Generally you won't be needing anything that's smaller than #3/0 as they are usually considered jeweler's blades.
Bigger blades will be both thicker and wider with less teeth per inch. There is no standard governing these specifications so there is a slight variation between manufacturers and between different series of blades by the same manufacturer.
Size of the blade is not the only factor that affects turning ability. Different manufacturing techniques make similar looking blades act vastly different. Experimentation may be required to find what brands work best.
There is a great difference between standard stamped blades and Precision Ground Tooth (PGT) blades. PGT's are a little more expensive. PGT’s are sharper and stay sharp longer than stamped blades.
PGT’s do not have a stamping burr on one side. This allows PGT blades to cut perpendicular to the blade rather than at the 10-15 degrees to the right required when using stamped blades. This alone makes the higher cost more than worth it.
New Scroll Saw Files from Olson
Great for Metal Crafting! 5 inch Plain End and Pin End fit most scroll saws. 5” long x .156” wide x .056” thick, plain end Olson Scroll Saw Files convert your scroll saw into a power sander that’s ideal for metal crafters and artists!
Fine grit Scroll Saw Files can smooth, sand, shape, and correct even complex contours and forms, eliminating hand sanding in hard and soft wood, plaster, greenware, soapstone, and non-ferrous metals including copper and brass.
Made from a durable tempered spring steel core coated with a silicon carbide abrasive, they work in most scroll saws taking plain end blades. They can also be used in pin vises, craft knife handles, mini hack, jeweler and hand fret saws.